![]() 02/18/2019 at 20:40 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
Got an estimate from the local New H olland dealer to fix the leaky timing cover and timing plate gasket on my 1995 Ford 1720.
!!! UNKNOWN CONTENT TYPE !!!
~ $15 0 worth of parts ( including a new water pump and rad hoses , might as well do it all while you’re taking the whole front of the engine apart...)
20-24 hours labor @ $8 0/hr.
HAHA.
ha.
sweet jesus.
this is what the timing gear cover covers... note that this picture shows the front of the tractor disassembled with the front axle and frame rails removed and the block propped up on wood blocks. This is how The Guy at the New Holland dealer thinks it should be done, but the factory repair manual indicates it should be doable with the front frame and axle still in place...
Now, T
he Guy was saying he might be able to do it without removing the front axle and frame rails (which the repair manual certainly indicates should be the case) but even then he’d expect 10-15 hours.
G reat G oogly M oogly.
I think I will be attempting to take the ROPS off so I can fit it in the garage and do the labor myself. I have the tools and skills, but it’s winter and I don’t have an indoor space tall enough to get the tractor into that isn’t currently filled with sheep who are about to give birth... as a matt er of fact we had our first lambs today!
Freshies, less than an hour old at the time this picture was taken...
If I can get the ROPS bar off, and then partially deflate the rear tires I can just sneak it under the garage door with the cab still on...
![]() 02/18/2019 at 21:22 |
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Lets see.... Twenty... times eighty... SIXTEEN! Oh crap, forgot the zeroes...
Hmm yep: that's 1.8 running Pasoes right there.
![]() 02/18/2019 at 21:23 |
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Ewwww w sheep afterbirth
![]() 02/18/2019 at 22:06 |
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The first rule of book rate: the book always says it will take less time than it actually does.*
* - does not apply to anything that is done in software**
** - unless there’s a download from the manufacturer involved
![]() 02/18/2019 at 22:07 |
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Yeeeesh. That's spendy!
![]() 02/18/2019 at 22:19 |
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Yeah. I mean, it does really look like a PITA job in the manual...
![]() 02/18/2019 at 22:50 |
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Yeah, sounds like it.
![]() 02/18/2019 at 22:59 |
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I have never worked on a real farm implement before but when I think about it, it reminds me of a handful of legal cases where the farmer/mechanic hurts themselves and scratches the will into fender. Good luck!
Where is Immoral Minority on this.
https://www.matthewbtalbot.com/blog/2016/11/18/the-holographic-will-in-california
![]() 02/19/2019 at 00:04 |
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Sheesh, that’s somewhere between a third and a half the way to another tractor, isn’t it? You could buy a lot of oil between now and summer with that kind of coin.
![]() 02/19/2019 at 00:24 |
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Nah, resale values on modern-ish 4x4 compact diesel tractors are ridonkulous. I probably couldn’t replace this thing for less than $8k, and the one I would pay $8k for will need new tires (~$ 1200) and may or may not leak oil from somewhere. And yes, I could buy a lot of oil... The real issue is that the leak is bad enough that I feel pretty shitty spreading that much oil around as I use it. And I'll really need it by the time summer rolls around, so I should really fix it now...
![]() 02/19/2019 at 02:07 |
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As the now owner of an MF65 from the early 60s with a range of OCD inducing faults but, most importantly, questionable steering...I feel your pain.
Which is also why the new shed is designed to fit the tractor with the ROPS in place. I just need it to be built.
Lambs!!!!
![]() 02/19/2019 at 02:46 |
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I do not understand enough of how tractors are put together to comprehend how this could be the case. Do you have to basically crack it in half to get to the timing parts? That’s wild.
![]() 02/19/2019 at 03:30 |
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no independent repairers you could try?
![]() 02/19/2019 at 05:41 |
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Maybe, but the idea of getting a quote was to see if the repair was likely to cost ~500ish or ~1500ish. Since it's clearly on the high end of that scale I'm willing to tackle it myself.
![]() 02/19/2019 at 05:53 |
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fair enough
![]() 02/19/2019 at 10:26 |
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The N843 engine in the 1720 is extremely compact, and shoehorned in. Here’s what’s involved in getting to that gasket.
1) drain coolant, engine oil, and power steering
2) remove hood, front shroud, battery and battery tray, radiator, fan, alternator power steering hard lines, power steering resivior, and injector lines.
3) remove power steering pump and main hydraulic pump
4) pull crank pulley fuel input line and shutoff solenoid, loosen injection pump from block, but do not remove.
5) disconnect speed governor from fuel pump coupling and remove front main seal
6) remove 17 bolts holding timing cover in place.
7) remove hydraulic pump idler gear and governor idler gear
8) remove gasket and replace..
If the timing plate gasket a lso needs to be replaced you additionally must:
9) remove oil pump shroud and drive gear
10) remove primary fuel pump drive gear
11) remove fuel pump and water pump
12) loosen balance shaft mounting bracket
13) remove timing plate and replace gasket.
A t least this process doesn't touch the camshaft or require de-meshing the balance shaft drive gears, however if the injection pump is removed it must be retimed at assembly.